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When you are designing for summers and specifically for special occasion dressing an art form which stands out is the timeless Gota embroidery, equally appealing in timeless zardosi style Gota Patti as well as the more contemporary Kaccha Gota applications.
And along comes the fabrics which should be selected for these designs and first choices are mul cotton, Kota and Chanderi. Putting all this together as we come up with our Spring Summer'18 collection, we are reminded of the prominence of the princely state of Rajasthan which is for all good reasons the home for the gota patti embroideries. Be it the Royal ladies who would like to adorn some glamour but could not withstand the weight of dabka, nakshi or sequins or the colourful vagabonds who need something to complement the spring in their walks. Gota is the perfect answer.
Traditionally, Gota used to be made with sheets of Gold and silver, which would be cut into fine patterns similar to small leaves, which literally translates into hindi as 'patti' and fine gota ribbons would be again woven with gold or silver threads. Use of Gota on one's attire would be no less than jewels stitched on to clothes which probably is befitting to the royal land of Rajasthan. Another companion to the gota patti embroidery is 'Kundan' which is traditionally precious and semi-precious stones embellished along in the embroidery patterns.
Gota patti traditional embroidery continues to be very popular in bridal wear with usage of real gota or intricate patterns giving it age old charmm and richness. Gota patti lehengas are a choice for mehendi ceremonies too as the mehndi jewellery become floral and gota flowers.
These leaves or gota pattis and laces were stitched with hands on to fabric using applique methods to create beautiful patterns, mostly geometric with light presence of birds and animals. One bird which finds a prominent palce in gota embroideries is the colourful Peacock, which is beauty and romance resonating the vibrance of the land.
Gota Pattis are aslo fixed using 'doris' or dabka which might be an influence over time from various cultures like mughal arts, which advocated fine metallic wire into embroideries.
Another popular art form from Rajasthan is preparation of various laces using gota ribbons, either in the form of magzis and twisted 'marori'. typically used on the borders for dupattas or sarees. While usage of magzi and marori has been always around Gota Patti, a recent upswing has been in the embroidery form using gota ribbons or 'Kaccha Gota' which is used to create beautiful patterns providing Indian embroideries with their very own version of ribbon embroideries.
We have tried to use 'kaccha gota' with hand embroideries as well as machine embroideries and the results have been beautiful in both the forms. In hand embroidered kaccha gota, we could create more intricate patterns like Roses and Tulips, while machine embroideries were more geometric.
And as we continue with our efforts to bring together the new and the old, we are being surprised by the versatility and the beauty offered by Gota ribbons.
